In a ship-in-a-bottle tale, long-time Paekākāriki resident and former journalist Mark Te One gives us a glimpse of old village life through the story of a local character with a unique talent.
More than a decade ago my wife Sarah and two friends were at the Paekakariki School Annual Fair, enjoying the usual social interaction that happens at these times.
There was a raffle, the prize, a beautifully carved ship in a bottle. We shared a ticket with our friends and won. The vessel inside was the Taeping, one of five tea Clippers that contested the Great Tea Race from China to Britain in 1866. The Taeping is recorded as docking first after a journey of 14000 miles taking 99 days.
So how does a ship in a bottle have anything to do with Paekakariki and the school fair?
Short answer, it doesn’t. But the person who carved it does.
Bob Upham made ships in bottles and he was a well-known character in Paekakariki until he died in 1987. His full name was Bernard Robert Upham, but he wanted people to know him as Bobby. “Call me Bobby” he would rasp at new acquaintances. I met Bobby when he was about 70 years old in 1980.
After arriving in Paekakariki I had heard there was a person who made ships in bottles and that he could be found at the Hotel, a place frequented by local residents of the village. Many of these people worked at the railways, were associated with farming or had jobs in Wellington. The community was unique, vibrant and multi-faceted, similar to the present day.
Paekakariki Hotel in the1980’s was typical of many hotels in other parts of the country. There was a public bar and a lounge bar. Men would be in the public bar and if they needed to sit down to drink, they would use the lounge. The public bar at Paekakariki was loud, smoke infused, and smelled of nicotine mixed with hops. A pool table commanded a prime place and most of the talk was about rugby, racing, the price of beer and who was going to win the raffles.
The patrons propped themselves up on leaners – free standing benches, usually with a circle of mates. Plastic or glass jugs filled with draught beer would be facing them. A seven-ounce tumbler was the choice of glass as opposed to the handle today. The bottle store was near the front entrance, an arm’s length from the street, within easy access of passersby, travelling to and from the railway station. The publican, John Debreceny, would open the shutter at the side of the store when required and personally hand out the plonk. During Sunday closing times, the hinges would receive a vigorous workout.
Getting to meet Bobby was reasonably easy. Just look in the corner, I was told, near the painting of the New Zealand eight rowing team winning the gold medal.
No problem.
“Are you Bob?” I ask.
“And do you make ships in bottles?”
He nods his head and instead of asking my name he asks which ship interests me. “The Cutty Sark,” I reply.
At this point the locals are gazing intently in the direction of Bob and the noise level has dropped noticeably.
“The great Cutty Sark, the finest ship of all,” says Bobby, and shakes my hand. The bar resumes its business and an arrangement is confirmed. I was to be at the pub the following Friday with a large full bottle of Johnnie Walker Red and $20 and the ship would be ready two weeks later. True to his word was Bobby! There it was in a brown paper bag on the leaner. “Call me Bobby,” he says and shakes my hand. By the end of the night Bobby is calling everyone within ear shot Bobby.
Bobby was well known in Paekakariki and in Pukerua Bay where he lived. It is said he would row a dinghy from Pukerua Bay to Paekakariki or he would walk along Centennial Highway to the Paekakariki Hotel. In later years he took the train. A neighbour still living in the Bay recalls Bobby as a jovial man and when he arrived in the Bay from Paekakariki he could be heard singing on the way home. “He would be carrying his Gladstone bag which was large enough for two flagons”, she said.
Bobby was drafted for military service during WW2 and a photograph shows him in Navy uniform. People who knew Bobby and are alive today have said that whilst he was good natured, he was not a man to be messed with. Bobby was an accomplished boxer as some young bucks discovered.
Now back to the present. My Cutty Sark has gone but I am part owner of the Taeping. Bobby has departed but the Taeping he left behind remains. It carries a package of tea leaves from Wellington Road to the Parade on the 10th September most years making the return voyage the following year. The joint birthday of two of the owners.
Photo: Bob Upham